Power loss in 300d using WVO

Trying to find out why my 300d loses power after it has been running for a few hours on highway traffic. Have been adding WVO directly to the tank this summer, maybe not well filtered, but have drained the tank and have been running on pure diesel for a half tank when it happened again. Have replaced fuel filter and while there was clearly some carbon bits from the fryer oil, it wasn't too bad. Thought maybe the lift pump, or possibly injectors are fouled, but once the car cools, it seems to run okay again.
Anyone had a simialr experinece?

Power Loss in a 300D

I ran into the same issue with my Mercedes last weekend. I have yet to try running in on veggie again because I figured it was one of the filters. I have an separate electric fuel pump for my veggie system and it seems to be working fine. I am curious to find out how you make out and if you come to any conclusions. You can email me with any comments or questions @ Eastcoastsk8ing@comcast.net

My car was slowing down at highway speeds as if the filter were cloged, but the filter only has about 200 miles on it and the oil should be good filtered down with a 5/1 micron bag filter. Maybe I need to filter it with a nominal 1 micron bag after? Water in the oil, not letting it settle long enough?

I had that last winter.

I had that last winter. turns out that it was wvo was too cold. Over a period of time if the wvo is not 160 to 180 then
glycerine builds up in the filter and clogs it, a new filter takes care of it until the cool wvo slowly leaves the glycerine build up behind instead of burning it. Hot WVO is the key to this whole operation. Grease on!

clogging and filtering

From good old germany.
I run all my cars actually two VW TDI´s on pure plant oil (selfpressed rapeoil) since 1999 (50000mls/year). Your problem might be the filtering. No Filter bag although it ist a 5/1 micron bag do it like it´s discribed. The productivity is between 50 and 70 percent, so thats bad and your problem. If you use selfpressed oil or WVO (Biodiesel is the worst) you`d have to let the oil in the container for at least 2-3 weeks (depending on temperature and viscosity) without using the oil, than pump the oil from the top (because of cleaning the oil by sedimentation) through your filtering bag with a pressure not acceeding 1 bar.
If you just started veggie fueling, a cleaning process of all of your fuelsystem will take a few full fuelling processes. Veggie oil cleans the pre diesel used fuelsystem and the otherway round diesel cleans a veggie oil system, so that sometimes clogged filters occure.
And make sure that there´s no water (humidity) in your oil.
At your speeds and rmp´s (in US) you drive on highways, the high viscosity of the oil should be ok for delivering the oil through the filter to the injection pump.
So don´t be a fool and stop your usage of plant oil.
Greetings from Germany

Power Loss in a 300

Yep use a fuel pump as that will more likely fix your problem. or better still - replace your seals in your IP or get the IP pressure tested. Cheers Snotta.

Power loss in 300D

So I got to the bottom of this issue and fixed it. It was the filters getting plugged. I had issues with large amounts of animal fats in the oil. Watch out for this and avoid it if you can. Let the oil you use settle good and long and only take off the top.

I also had an interesting issue that took me over a year to figure out. The injection pump timing was 70 degrees out and when set at the normal 26 degrees, the car would not idle and it ran like crap. I put the timing back and the car ran fine, but slow as a snail...really slow. This is how the car was since I got it. It would get worse when you drove the car on the highway for long periods of time then tried to accelerate from a stop light after getting off the highway. Finally I found that the check valve in the lift pump was missing and not allowing the fuel system to pressurize. I had no fuel pressure. The injection pump was sucking the fuel through the filter and it caused the car to run like trash. Some idiotic mechanic took and though that setting the injection pump timing 70 retarded would make sense. Well it evened the idle out and the car ran...surprisingly, but it was slow as hell.

I hope NO one else comes across such inanity.

I just ran into a similar

I just ran into a similar thing on my 99 f350 7.3 deisel, I had no power, stammers at idiol and acceration with no engine code. I replaced fuel pump, air filter, fuel filter, checked batterys, cleaned out back pressure sensor, checked for vaccume leaks, dropped fuel tank. none of worked, it was not untill I dropped the tank a secound time after some advise from a mechanic that i found the problem, there is a white cyclinder on the pickup tube, at the time i didnt know what it was and i didnt want to break it 200 miles from home, but with the sugestion of the mechanic i took it apart and found 2 round screens completely clogged. I cleaned those screens and my truckk runs better than ever. I hope this has helped somebody in time of need, I was broke down for 2 days.

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